Community Voices

Who Feeds Our Kids: Steve Hed

Welcome to Food Connects’ series highlighting the amazing essential workers in our community who work hard every day to keep our children fed. Read on to learn more!

Steve Hed

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Food service should be such a huge part of the curriculum because teaching kids, particularly at a young age, how to eat right now, just like learning ABCs, can impact them positively or negatively throughout their whole life.
— Steve Hed

Steve Hed has been working at Putney Central School for more than five years. He began in a part-time position as the school’s sustainability coordinator. He stepped into the additional role of Food Service Director when the school meal program went independent several years ago.  We sat down with him last spring to discuss the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on his work and the school community during the school closure.

Sheila Humphreys (SH-FC): How has your work changed since school closures and COVID-19?

Steve Hed (SH): In one sense, not all that much. My day has been rearranged in terms of how things happen, but I still do a lot of the same things. I used to come in at 6:00 AM to get breakfast started, but now we're doing both meals together, so I come in around 7:00 AM. My day is very full because we used to get breakfast done first, then get lunch ready by 11:30 for the first lunch and 12:15 for the second lunch. Now we have to get both meals ready by 11:30 when the buses leave, so the morning is a real crunch. A lot of our food is scratch-cooked. There are certain things that you don't want to make days ahead, while some things do work better days ahead, like chili. Today we’re serving a turkey, lettuce, and tomato sandwich, and we want that to be fresh. It’s very time-consuming to assemble 125 sandwiches! The whole meal preparation system has changed. It's gotten crunched into a shorter period of time in the morning. 

One thing that's a little bit easier is that we have a really extensive salad bar during the school year, but now we don't have the salad bar. That's one big piece of food prep that’s been taken out, which is definitely helpful. There are also a few other items that just don't travel well, so the diversity of what we serve has diminished. We've really tried to come up with interesting lunches so that the kids aren’t just getting hamburgers and hot dogs every day or something like that.  We don't do pizza anymore, which is really different. That was our big day! If you want pizza to travel well, you need to make it the day before and then chill it and send it chilled. All of our pizzas are homemade. We make the dough and the sauces ourselves. We were thinking of doing pizza, but shortly after COVID-19 started, you couldn't get flour and yeast.  Yeast is still almost impossible to find right now, and we haven’t been able to get whole wheat flour for quite a while. So that kind of threw pizza out the window for us. We could have bought frozen pizza dough, but we just don't like it. So we've decided to take pizza off. We're trying new things instead, like a gluten-free, vegan quinoa salad now with garbanzo beans for protein, and all kinds of veggies. It's something new, and it seems to be a real hit. We're also doing a Peruvian recipe for black bean and rice burritos which is also a big hit. We're trying some new things that are really filling and also travel well. 

As far as paperwork, In one sense, the paperwork has gotten easier. I don't have to deal with a lot of the daily point of sale details, but we have other meal count sheets that we have to do. I'm constantly having to keep up with waivers and changes from the state. It's hard to know, on a day-to-day basis, whether you're doing things according to the code.  

Another thing that’s been added to my job is managing the delivery system because we're delivering to houses and neighborhoods. I've got a whole database of families and addresses, and I’m trying to constantly keep in contact to find out what people need, food allergies, etc. Keeping track of all that is a whole new aspect to my job, but the system is working, and the more organized we are with it all, the better things work. One hard part has been trying to figure out how to get everything really organized so that it moves like clockwork. Finally, I think I'm getting there!

SH-FC: What's been keeping you going during these times?

SH: During the first couple of weeks, when our small kitchen staff was doing it all, we were thinking, “there's no way we can keep this going.” We are a pretty small group, and, all of a sudden, we had to send the meals out by bus, and we had no packaging materials. I spent thousands of dollars buying packaging materials and trying to figure out what works and what doesn't. I had that whole headache in the beginning of trying to figure out everything. 

Once we realized there was just no way that we could do it by ourselves, things changed. Some of the paraeducators started calling and saying, “Hey, we want to help out.” Once we figured out how to add their support, that helped immensely. Before, we were kind of insular. We weren’t seeing any of the kids—we were just sending food on the bus. We enjoy the cooking part of our jobs, but the biggest thing that we like is serving the kids. It's fun to see them take the food, and with our salad bar, they're always excited and trying new things. It's the relationship between the food and the kids that keeps you going during the school year, even though, of course, it’s frustrating sometimes. 

The first thing that happened with the paras helping us out is that it added a whole new dimension. You can hear them in there now talking to each other while they work, and it just kind of takes your mind off of things. 

What started happening next is that we started getting emails from some of the families and cards from the kids, and they were SO appreciative. Once we started having that connection again we realized our purpose, that we do have a purpose and that what we’ve been doing is appreciated and people need it. 

In some of the staff meetings that we do on Zoom, people would ask us, “How's it going?” In the beginning, we would say,” I think we're doing okay.” And then some of the teachers would chime in and say, “Hey, sometimes when we're in the middle of the zoom lesson, the kids will say, ‘Oh, I gotta go, my food is here.’” And they told us that it’s the highlight of the kids’ day when they get their bag of food, and they want to know, “what's in my bag?” and there’s this excitement about everything. A lot of parents then have told us that the meal delivery is the one truly structured part of their day. Every day they know this is going to happen, the kids are waiting for it, and they can plan around it. It’s the community that has been keeping me going once I realized that these meals are as important as they are. It was hard to know that in the beginning because we weren’t seeing the kids. I've ridden the bus several times just to see, and that helps me, particularly when I can see and wave to the kids.

SH-FC: What has been your biggest challenge during this time?

SH: My biggest challenge has been wrapping my head around it all. There's so much going on, so many little details—from getting everything organized on a daily basis to figuring out what to order to doing constant inventorying to figuring out what we have, especially with the packaging. On top of that, the availability of food and supplies changes almost daily. One day you can get something but the next day, you can't. So I create a menu, and then I find out there's no more ham available anymore. And so I have to change up on the fly. So it's a challenge wrapping my head around the whole structure of how to run the meal program with so many unknowns. During a regular school year, everything is planned out. Adapting to changes on a constant basis is probably my biggest challenge.

SH-FC: How can the community support you and other food service workers during this time?

SH: They already are! We've got a whole list of volunteers, and we haven't had to dig that deep into it yet because we have this group of volunteers right now who are so dedicated to it.  Extremely dedicated. Frankly, we could not do it without these volunteers. We'd be going crazy by now without them! Just knowing that they're all here, and every once in a while, they say, “Hey, do you need more help?” We know they're always willing to help.

And this community has also supported us.  We came in one day, and there were signs all over the school saying, “Thanks for feeding our kids!” You could tell a lot of the kids had made signs, and the place was plastered with signs. And in one of the emails that I sent out to the families, I said I wanted to really thank all the people that are involved in getting the meals out, and soon after, one little first grader with her family snuck in and delivered goodie bags to all of us! They were really cute bags. We all got a barbeque mitt and tongs and spatulas and ketchup and mustard.  It was awesome and just out of the blue! It's all the little things that this community is constantly doing that really help. I have been really impressed with this town and how everyone has pulled together. And we had a huge parade of all the school staff. There were 50 cars, and we drove the bus routes, and all the people were out waving, and the kids were out and they had signs. We did it to cheer them on, and they ended up cheering us on too! It was really impressive. It took about three hours to drive all around town. It was nice—we got to see the whole town and where the kids live. It shrunk the community size in the sense that we suddenly became aware of where everybody lives. A lot of the teachers who don't live in Putney, or even some of the ones that do, have never been in some of these neighborhoods. We really got to know our town. That’s one of the things that has happened is that we've grown closer as a community and gotten to know each other more. I know a lot more people that I never knew before, and I know where a lot of people live, which is kind of nice. It gives us some context to the families.

SH-FC: What advice would you give to someone who's interested in a career in school food service?

SH: Be patient. This work involves a lot of patience. I'm not even sure how to explain that, but it does. It’s a good job if you love to cook for people, particularly cooking healthy and interesting things for people. 

It’s a creative process, trying to come up with new ideas and getting kids interested in trying new foods. As far as patience goes, you’ve got to love kids. If you don't like kids, there's no sense of being there. What all of us say here is that “We're here to feed kids.” It's not just a job. We're here because we want them to eat well, and whatever we do is keeping that in mind.  

It's the same challenge for families. Kids say, “I don't want to eat that spinach!” How can you educate them and help them try things that they ordinarily would never try and get them interested in new things? On top of that, it’s about the health aspect of nutrition, why it's important, and how it can help the kids, whether it's intellectually, emotionally, etc.  For example, just about everyone, including myself, loves sugar and fatty foods.  It’s important to teach kids how to control that and realize that sometimes it's inappropriate to eat those foods, and we've got to look at the bigger picture. 

Through the food service and through gardening and health classes, different teachers reiterate these things in different ways. Food service should be such a huge part of the curriculum because teaching kids, particularly at a young age, how to eat right now, just like learning ABCs, can impact them positively or negatively throughout their whole life. This goes beyond what we can do here, in elementary school, but it can be built on in middle school or high school with other educational curricula, the concept that what you do now can affect even your economic situation and your health later on. 

As far as going into working in food service, you’ve got to come into it with a holistic approach. If you're just there for a job and you want to punch in and punch out, then it's probably not the best career for you, but if you really care about the kids, and you really want to interact with them, it’s great. We get to know every single kid in the school!

SH-FC: What brings you joy?

SH: Having my hands in the dirt! My biggest joy is growing food and teaching kids about it. That's really what I enjoy. I love teaching, and my garden is my classroom. You can do so much there! Watching kids become so empowered by growing, harvesting, bringing to the kitchen and eating what they've grown, and talking about it with their friends is very inspiring. That is the epitome of what the food service should be as part of a school if it's possible. I know not everyone has the luxury that we have, with all this space for gardens, but if this can be done on some level at many, many schools, I think that's where you're going to start seeing real change. My joy would be seeing kids grow through being empowered to take control of a lot of the things that they do at school. Kids are the best teachers for each other. If one kid learns something really well, they're the ones that are really going to get others excited about it. Kids love learning! My definition of a successful education has nothing to do with testing. Successful education is purely teaching children to love to learn. If you crack that code, if kids can learn to love to learn, then they're going to learn by themselves, 

SH-FC: One last question, what's something that you're grateful for? 

SH: I’m grateful for the people I work with. In spite of everything going on, this has been one of the most heartwarming experiences, just to see how everyone is coming together. It's amazing.

SH-FC: Any last words?

SH: I hoped this whole thing would be over by now, but it's not going to be. I'll have some time over the summer to come up with ideas of how we're gonna move on from here. It's weird. The reason people work in the schools is to work with kids. To not see them in person is really bizarre, so I’ll keep coming up with innovative ways to improve the experience.

Who Feeds Our Kids: Thristan Coke

Welcome to Food Connects’ series highlighting the amazing essential workers in our community who work hard every day to keep our children fed. Read on to learn more!

Thristan Coke

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I am a firm believer that kids must be fed, no matter what...I know what my kid is like when he’s hungry; I can’t imagine anybody else’s, so I am happy to feed them.
— Thristan Coke

Thristan Coke is the School Nutrition Site Manager for the Bellows Falls Union High School and the Catering Coordinator for Farm to School Cafe. As schools closed last March, the school brought most of the Windam Northeast Supervisory Union (WNESU) food production into the High School. We chatted with Thristan last fall about what the experience was like for him.

Thristan Coke (TC): I’ve been working in food service for the school for three years now. I’ve been in overall for almost nine years. I made the switch to working in schools after I got tired of working in restaurants and working nights. I am getting old—I like to sleep at night! 

Harley sold working at Farm to School Cafe as something more like cooking with a purpose, and I like that. I’ve been busier since COVID. As far as the health hazards and being aware of safety at work, that wasn’t a new thing for me, except for masks. But otherwise, I’ve just been busier.

Michelle Pinter-Petrillo (MPP): What has kept you going through COVID-19 times?

TC: I am a firm believer that kids must be fed, no matter what. 

What’s going on is not their fault, and they shouldn't be punished for anything. So I take pride in that. I come here and get stuff done, and that's what I do. I know what my kid is like when he’s hungry; I can’t imagine anybody else’s, so I am happy to feed them.

My son loves virtual school. He would prefer staying home and doing virtual school, so he is having the time of his life. For me not so much, because I have to help with the school work and keep everybody in line at home. I try to find a bit of balance between work and home. I am pretty flexible—I work with what I have.

My biggest challenge is always money. I always wish there were more hours in a day. There is always something more to get done.

MPP: How do you feel supported by the community? 

TC: I can go to Pete’s Stand, or they will bring things to me when I can’t make it and I always feel supported by them. We had the paraeducators working with us over the summer, and it was a big help. I think we tripled our staff in spring and summer, and then when the school year started, they weren’t with us anymore. Now we’re back to our small team.

MPP: What advice would you give to someone wanting to work in school food service? 

TC: My favorite part is serving the kids and interacting with them. I give them a hard time, and they give me a hard time. I think that's the most attractive part, as far as job-wise. 

There are a lot of strict rules about what we can make for kids. I like to get creative with those rules—I believe that food should taste good. Yes, it should be healthy, but if it doesn’t taste good enough and they aren’t going to eat it, then it defeats the purpose. So it's interesting trying to find a balance between healthy and making them want to eat it. I try to work within the lines as much as I can.

MPP: What else brings you joy 

TC: The fact that I am still making the food for students. It was nice over the summer and before to make and send out food to their homes. But with some of them being back in school, I get to see some of them for a bit. I get a sense of drive from making it and giving the food to them. 

I am grateful to be paid and still have a job during COVID times, and it is pretty flexible. I can do things I need to, and that helps me take care of my family.

Who Feeds Our Kids: A Year of Reflection

As we reflect on the anniversary of the statewide school closures that resulted in overnight changes for families and school staff, Food Connects celebrates School Nutrition Professionals. These school lunch heroes stepped up every day to ensure our community remained fed. What a challenging year this has been for everyone working in school kitchens!

Last spring, while teachers, students, and families were making the difficult shift to remote learning, School Nutrition Professionals continued to work in person in school kitchens, making thousands of meals for youth in our community. They faced the anxiety of working in person while so many others were sheltering at home, the fear that they or their loved ones might be infected, or that they would spread the virus in their workplace. Steve Napoli is the head custodian at Putney Central School and was part of the core team working in the kitchen to get meals out in those early days. Napoli commented that it felt “eerie” at the start, but knowing they had to get meals out to take care of the community was essential.

Food Connects conducted a series of interviews last spring with School Nutrition Professionals and other school staff working in kitchens in Windham County schools. We wanted to learn more about the effects of the pandemic on their work and how they were coping with challenges such as consolidating efforts into centralized kitchens, making the switch to unitized meals, managing childcare as working parents, and keeping spirits up during challenging times. Their responses inspired us.

Many changes needed to happen quickly when school kitchens made the switch to delivering meals remotely. According to Steve Hed, Food Service Director at Putney Central School, “The whole meal preparation system changed. It got crunched into a shorter period of time.” Along with the crunch of preparing meals in time to be delivered to families by bus, the packaging requirements shifted as well. Ariane Lavoie, also of Putney Central School, said it best: “Less kids, more packaging!”

Schools with salad bars like Putney Central and Central Elementary School in Bellows Falls noticed a difference. Erica Frank, Site Manager at Central School, said, “We got a salad bar going in 2019, and it really took off. We had so many options, and it was so fun. It helped the kids try new things, and we don’t have that this year.” On the other hand, eliminating the salad bar simplified food prep, which helped free up kitchen staff to meet additional individual packaging requirements.

The challenge of finding foods that could be pre-packaged easily and travel well allowed schools to try out new recipes. Steve Hed reported that they’re trying new things in the kitchen, “like a gluten-free, vegan quinoa salad with garbanzo beans for protein, and all kinds of veggies.” They also added a Peruvian recipe for black bean and rice burritos, both of which have been “a big hit.”

With the switch to Universal Meals for all students, Food Service Directors’ paperwork has decreased. However, last spring, developing the meal delivery system added a brand new challenge to the job, including mapping out routes to efficiently deliver food to families throughout the school district.

When asked what kept them going, School Nutrition Professionals spoke passionately about community food security needs and the importance of feeding their students. The physical act of going to work helped keep their spirits up as well. “It keeps me going to have something to do every day when I wake up in the morning, someplace to go,” said Linda Griffin, who works in all 3 Brattleboro elementary schools. “I’m not the kind of person who can sit around doing nothing. Having this job has definitely saved me from going stir crazy.”

Thinking about their biggest challenges, most spoke about missing the students. Academy School’s lead cook, Jasmine Star Nightingale, summed it up perfectly, with tears in her eyes, saying, “My biggest challenge is not seeing the children. It is very painful. They're all just wonderful kids, and just seeing them smiling every day...I miss that!”

Many changes happened quickly, and it was a challenge to adjust. Lori Reynolds normally works at Dummerston School, serving meals to 80-100 students each day. When schools closed, Reynolds started reporting to work daily in the centralized kitchen at Academy School, where meals were being prepared and packaged for multiple schools in WSESD. She was in charge of the alternative meals—approximately 28 daily orders for gluten-free, dairy-free, vegetarian, and/or vegan meals. “I'm learning new things, which is a little bit challenging for me, but I’m doing it!” said Reynolds. She paid acute attention to detail to fulfill these orders, which she said “got my brain going very quickly” first thing in the morning.

Another challenge for School Nutrition Professionals with children was managing childcare and supporting remote learning while working in the kitchen during the day. Jill Harnish from Oak Grove School described the challenges faced by many working parents, saying, “It’s hard because my youngest is a senior this year, and he’s in special education. He’s got homework to do, so when I leave work, I have to go home and help him with his homework because he won’t do it when I’m not there.”

Community support helped keep everyone going, both in the form of additional school staff and community volunteers coming in to help the kitchens and in community expressions of gratitude for the invaluable work of School Nutrition Professionals. Nancy Gagnon is the office clerk at Putney Central School. When schools closed, she began working in the kitchen regularly, helping prep food and pack meals. When asked about community support, she responded by saying, “One of the biggest things the community is doing is showing appreciation for the effort that this whole team of people have provided. We've been getting some feedback from families...it buoys you and makes you really feel like your efforts are being appreciated. There’s a back and forth, connecting with families and knowing that they're happy with the food they're getting, and you feel happy that you're doing it.”

Many people mentioned the satisfaction they get from knowing that they are feeding children who need it, and they are proud of the quality of the food they make. Mary Beth Peterson is a kindergarten paraeducator at Putney Central School, and she helped out regularly in the school kitchen during the spring when her students were fully remote. Working in the school kitchen gave her a new perspective, and she proudly stated, “The quality of the food and the personalization that our food service staff put into what they do is phenomenal. The quality of the food is WOW; I can't believe it! The diversity and the kid-friendly food, it's quality stuff.” Thristan Coke from Bellows Falls Union High School said, “I am a firm believer that kids must be fed, no matter what. What’s going on is not their fault, and they shouldn't be punished for anything. So I take pride in that...I know what my kid is like when he’s hungry; I can’t imagine anybody else’s, so I am happy to feed them.”

We also asked what brought these folks joy in their lives and what they were grateful for. Jess Boucher of Dummerston School shared that some of her joy comes from “seeing smiling kids, happy kids, and when the kids tell me they like the food and how good of a job I’m doing.” On the topic of gratitude, people were universally grateful for their families, health, and jobs. Erica Frank from Central School spoke specifically about her appreciation for her co-workers, saying, “I’m grateful for the team who comes together at this time to make it work, no drama and just getting the job done. People coming together and bringing lots of different skill sets has been really nice.”

We are grateful for these unsung heroes in our community who nourish children in our community each day. The complete series of interviews can be found here: https://www.foodconnects.org/news-2/tag/Who+Feeds+Our+Kids

Who Feeds Our Kids: Nancy Gagnon

Welcome to Food Connects’ series highlighting the amazing essential workers in our community who work hard every day to keep our children fed. Read on to learn more!

Nancy Gagnon

I already had great respect for our kitchen staff and for the quality of meals that they provide for our students. Being in there and watching the day in day out work that they do, my respect and admiration rose greatly.
— Nancy Gagnon

Nancy Gagnon is the office clerk at Putney Central School. When schools closed last March, her work changed dramatically, and she played an essential role in helping get food to students during the school closures. At the end of the 2020 school year, we sat down to learn more about her work feeding students in our community.

Sheila Humphreys (SH): How has your work changed due to COVID-19?

Nancy Gagnon (NG): When school closed in March, I was wondering what kind of role I would have, if any, since I work in the office part-time. In conversations with Steve Hed, our Food Service Director, it became apparent that I could get involved by working with our meal program. There was an opportunity for me to come in and do some prep work. The timing was somewhat flexible—I could come in for a few hours in the morning, which was good for my schedule. And I could work fairly independently—getting food ready for the next day or sometimes that day, or putting food in bags and helping get the meals out the door, and also often prepping food for the next day or even the day after. Before the pandemic, I worked in the office, and I was never involved in the kitchen except communication support, which we do in the office with everybody in the building.

SH: That's an interesting perspective. How has your thinking changed now that you're working in the kitchen?

NG: I already had great respect for our kitchen staff and for the quality of meals that they provide for our students. Being in there and watching the day in day out work that they do, my respect and admiration rose greatly. They do a lot of incredible planning. They are always thinking ahead, and they are really engaged with nutrition and figuring out the best ways to provide fresh, nutritious food to our students. It's a whole system of a lot of hard work, and it's been fun to be a little part of that.

SH: What is keeping you going during these unusual times?

NG: I've been really happy to be able to stay connected to school and stay connected to our school community. I'm really grateful for this little job working in the kitchen every day for an hour or two. It’s been really important and positive for me to have a daily routine of coming to school and connecting with a few people that I've worked with all through all year. I’m really happy to have had this opportunity. I really see it as that, an opportunity, and I’m really happy to be part of this getting these meals out to kids and families.

SH: What has been your biggest challenge during this time?

NG: The uncertainty of the future. For example, not having the answers to lots of questions about how life will be in the future. In particular, what will my job be like, in the fall? Will I have a job? And what will it be like, if I do have one?

SH: How can the community support you and other food service workers during this time?

NG: One of the biggest things the community is doing is showing appreciation for the effort that this whole team of people have provided. We've been getting some feedback from families that Steve has shared with us, and it buoys you and makes you really feel like your efforts are being appreciated. There’s a back and forth, connecting with families and knowing that they're happy with the food they're getting, and you feel happy that you're doing it.

SH: What brings you joy?

NG: Being outside brings me joy. In my personal life, I like cooking. I like baking and making bread. I like reading and being with my children.

SH: What are you grateful for?

NG: I'm grateful for my school community. I'm grateful for my family. And I'm grateful for living in Putney and in Vermont.

SH: What advice would you give to someone who is interested in working in school foodservice?

NG: I would have that person ask themselves if they are a really hard worker. Because I think it's hard work. And I think in order to do it and do it well, you need to be a hard worker, and you need to be dedicated.

Understanding Our Agricultural History

Written by Laura Carbonneau, Food Connects Communications and Development Manager

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We all have stories that connect us with food. They could be cooking with family members, meals with friends, or perhaps growing your own food. In my work at Food Connects it is my job to tell the stories of local farmers, food producers, our customers dedicated to local food, and schools committed to Farm to School programming. 

Telling the stories of these impactful organizations comes easy. The more I write and share, the more reflective I become about my own food story and connections to agriculture. I have been acutely involved in food systems since 2008—before I had even graduated from college. My passions have always included food and agriculture and the influences of it on my life have been profound. It would be easy for me to tell you a beautifully painted picture of my work in food systems, the places I have traveled to so I could study food and food systems, or my personal endeavors in growing and producing my own food. But I have a deeper, more historical connection to agriculture that I would be remiss if I did not share it with you.

Painting of the Mayflower.

Painting of the Mayflower.

My family has “old American blood.” My family lineage, through my maternal grandmother, can be traced back to the Pilgrims from England. I am related to the Alden, Cooke, Soule, Mullins, Warren, and Rogers families who came over on the Mayflower, as well as numerous other individuals who came on the Fortune, Elizabeth and Ann, and subsequent voyages.

So… what does that have to do with food and agriculture now?

A lot.

As an individual who is passionate about food justice, I carry with me immense historical guilt. The first English settlers in New England had enormous ecological, social, and agricultural impacts on the land and indigenous people. Those who settled in the Plymouth Colony and those who followed and spread across New England changed the face of the landscape and how the Wampanoag and other indigenous peoples lived. 

It is commonly known that the Pilgrims who came over on the Mayflower were ill-equipped for settling in a new land. Based on the inaccuracies of maps at the time, they believed that where the ship would land was a much warmer climate than their homes in England. They landed just before the cold of a New England winter hit and many did not survive the first winter. To survive, many Pilgrims raided Wampanoag food stores and graves, which also stored food. This act of survival was an early example of a supremacist, colonist mentality—there was no thought of respect for the traditions of the Wampanoags, only the focus on self-preservation. 

Drawing of the Pilgrims with Tisquantum.

Drawing of the Pilgrims with Tisquantum.

That first spring the Pilgrims relied on the knowledge Tisquantum (more commonly known as Squanto) to teach them how to better use the natural resources at their disposal. Tisquantum aided them in trade between the various leaders of the Wampanoag Confederation. The first ship of European settlers worked with Tisquantum and others but as more and more ships arrived it was easier to ignore the treaties made with different tribes. And as the settlers brought over more guns and disease, they found themselves increasingly in a position of power—both causing the deaths of so many indigenous people.

A striking difference between the two cultures was their way of obtaining food. The Wampanoag tribes knew how to work in harmony with the seasons and had an intimate knowledge of the habits and ecology of the different species of the region. They were flexible, nimble, and mobile in their relationships with food and nature. The European settlers did not understand or respect these traditions and practices. They brought something over that was just as destructive to the land as the disease was to the Wampanoag—agriculture and animal husbandry. This is starkly different than the hunter-gather society that existed. Royal charters from England drew boundaries that had no thought for the claims of the existing inhabitants and focused on the “improvement” of the land. The land was turned over, forests were destroyed, foreign foods and pests were introduced, and overhunting and overfishing occurred.

My family, who came over on the Mayflower, may have had the best intentions—they were looking for a home for their families away from religious persecution. But in doing so they created a chain reaction that changed the face of the landscape. The “us versus them” mentality inherent in their interactions with the Wampanoag people created a deep-seated feeling of superiority that paved the way for ideas like Manifest Destiny and that taking advantage of people who are “lesser” was not only okay but encouraged.

Drawing of Eli Whitney.

Drawing of Eli Whitney.

Fast forward about 170 years to meet my distant relative, Eli Whitney. He and I share a common ancestor, John Whitney Sr., who is my 10th great-grandfather and Eli’s 4th great-grandfather. Eli Whitney was an inventor and in his travels to the South, he worked with a benefactor, Phineas Miller, to create the cotton gin. Miller had come to Whitney, on behalf of his colleagues, to find a solution to improve the process of separating the cotton lint from the seeds. Because of the long processing time, growing cotton was unprofitable in America and there was still a reliance on the import of cotton.

The cotton gin dramatically changed the agricultural economy of the South. Human processing of cotton could produce about one pound of cotton per day, but with the use of the cotton gin, that number increased 50 fold. Between the high demand for cotton, in English and New England textile industries, and the new ease with which cotton could be processed, growing cotton became much more appealing. The economy in the South grew, but not everyone benefited. The labor force of the South, African slaves, suffered the deepest wounds with the advent of this new technology. Slavery had started to become “unprofitable” and the cotton gin revived a dying market. The cotton gin replaced the labor necessary to process cotton, but not to grow and harvest it—slavery and cotton would be intertwined until slavery’s abolition, whether that was the intent of the gin or not.

Now, roughly 225 years later, here I am. And how do I resolve this historical guilt that lives inside me? As part of their survival and means of living, my ancestors changed the face of agriculture in America at the expense of Wampanoag and African people. My conflict comes from wanting to be immersed and proud of my family’s history because without them myself and many others would not be here, while at the same time I know that the pain they caused is still being felt by the descendants of those who were taken advantage of. And perhaps that is why I am pulled towards food justice and improving our food system for all. Writing about these stories has been painful and joyful at the same time and has ignited a passion in me to learn more about my family’s story with agriculture that goes beyond our beginnings in America. My hope is that my descendants can look back at my food history and be proud.

Food Connects' Intern Carissa Brings Taste Tests and Sensory Activities to Summer Meals in Brattleboro

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Dietetic Intern. New Hampshire resident. Pennsylvania native. Penn State alumna. Future dietitian. Food lover. Travel enthusiast. Experimenter in the kitchen. Appreciator of fresh, local, flavorful food. Avid reader.

I’m Carissa, and these are a few things about me. For the past year, I’ve been living in New Hampshire, completing my dietetic internship in order to become a registered dietitian. Keene State College’s dietetic internship is community-focused and very individualized, allowing me the opportunity to create my own projects with Food Connects this summer. With inspiration from some amazing resources like VT Harvest of the Month, I developed a series of sensory activities and taste tests to conduct during service of summer meals at Retreat Farm on some Fridays.

These activities highlight fresh, in-season produce and herbs grown at Retreat Farm, with the goal of increasing kids’ exposure to, interest in, and preference for fresh fruits and vegetables. Taste tests give kids the opportunity to try a new food without the commitment of eating a full meal. Sensory activities give kids the chance to interact with new foods using all of their senses other than taste, such as touch, sight, and smell. It can take a while for a child to become comfortable with a new food and eventually enjoy eating it, so it is my hope that these activities help kids grow an appreciation for fresh fruits and vegetables! To experience it for yourself, bring your kiddos to Retreat Farm for a free lunch at 12 pm on Friday August 9 and 16.

Growing up in Lancaster County, PA, there was never a shortage of fresh produce during the summer. When I went to college and started learning about the many social injustices in our society and the many issues in our current food system, my passion for providing equitable access to healthy food and nutrition education emerged. I originally started studying nutrition out of personal interest in and love for food, but now my eyes were opened to the role I could play in building a healthier, more sustainable, and more equitable food system as a dietitian. I don’t know what my career will look like or the exact jobs I’ll have, but my year in this internship has shown me that this work can be done many different ways. I am grateful for the opportunity to work with Food Connects, learn from its work in food distribution, access and education, and support its mission. I can’t wait to see how it and organizations with similar goals and values around the world change our food system for the better.

Food Connects us with History

Food can connect us in so many ways...to each other when we grow, prepare, and share food together...to the land as we plant, tend, and harvest our gardens...and to our own history.

After listening to Onika Abraham’s inspiring talk at the Massachusetts Farm and Sea to School Conference where she invited us to tell the stories of our agrarian ancestors, I wanted to know more of my own family’s history of farming, so I set out on a hunt. This led me on a tour of US history and brought me face to face with my own white privilege. This journey is causing me to think more deeply about the roots of injustice and challenge myself to work even harder to transform the systems that have benefited me and other white folks and oppressed so many others.

In a FoodCorps blog post on February 14, 2019, Tiffany McClain shares “3 Hard Truths That Will Help Your Organization Undo Racism.” First on the list is “learn and share whose ancestral lands you are privileged to stand on and—if they are no longer there—learn and share why that is...the first step toward undoing oppression is to name it and make it visible—not tiptoeing around it with words that soften the truth.”

So, here goes!


South Dakota

South Dakota

I grew up hearing about a soybean farm in Sioux Falls, South Dakota where my grandfather and his siblings spent time when they were young, but I never knew the details. My aunt asked my grandfather for a family history before he died, and this history, combined with additional research into the historical events of the time, has helped me to piece together parts of the story.

This farm belonged to my great, great grandfather—a man named Ian Ryan*. It was a 700-acre farm near Sioux Falls, and both soybeans and corn were grown there. Who was Ian Ryan, and how did he get so much land?

Tipperary, Ireland

Tipperary, Ireland

Ryan was born in 1863, one year before the end of the Civil War. He was born to Irish immigrants, refugees who had been farmers in Ireland and came to America from Tipperary in 1848, during the potato famine. I would love to know the details of their story of farming, struggle, and immigration, but unfortunately, I don’t know their names and their stories have been lost. My aunt traveled to Ireland several years ago and tried to find records of our Irish ancestors, but she was unsuccessful in her search because more than 1,000 years of the Irish records were destroyed when a public records office was bombed during the Irish Civil War of 1922.

Illinois-Michigan Canal

Illinois-Michigan Canal

What we do know about my Irish ancestors is that they landed in Boston and immediately headed west to a large Irish immigrant farming community in La Salle, Illinois. This is where Ian Ryan was born. La Salle was a boom town at the time of their arrival. 1848 was the year that the Illinois-Michigan Canal was completed, linking the Illinois River in La Salle to Chicago and Lake Michigan. Much of the work building the canal had been done by Irish immigrants working in extremely difficult conditions who settled in the area when the canal was completed, which explains why there was a large Irish community there. At that time, La Salle was described as a place where northern and southern culture met, as shipments from New Orleans and the Caribbean came up the river by steamship and shipments from Chicago and the east coast arrived via the canal.

When Ian Ryan was in his teens he left Illinois, traveling over 500 miles west to Dakota Territory to work as a land surveyor. Land surveying was big business in the Dakota Territory at that time—the Homestead Act of 1862 stole millions of acres of native land and gave it away in 160-acre parcels to European settlers. All that stolen land had to be surveyed before the allotments were made.

The narrative in America about people like my great, great grandfather, a first-generation American who made it big, is that anyone in our country can achieve this if they have a dream and work hard enough. I don’t doubt that Ryan was a hard worker, however, it is clear to me that his whiteness gave him a huge advantage. If instead, my great, great grandfather had been an extremely hard-working and visionary member of the Dakota Sioux, this would be a very different story.

At some point, Ryan switched from land surveying to banking, and he founded a prominent bank in Sioux Falls. It was through his career at the bank that he bought the 700-acre farm. The farm was purchased in what my cousin thinks was a foreclosure auction in the 1920s during the Farm Crisis brought on by the steep drop in agriculture prices after World War I. Ryan purchased the farm as an investment and, as far as I know, he never lived on the farm or worked that land, in spite of the fact that his parents had been farmers in Ireland and later in Illinois and he had grown up on a farm. That farmland, originally the homeland of the Dakota Sioux that was stolen as part of the Homestead Act, stayed in my family as an investment property until the early 1990s, providing income to all of Ryan’s descendants for several generations. Managing the farm from afar became too difficult for my grandfather and his sister and they finally sold it, investing the proceeds in the stock market so that future generations, including my own, could continue to benefit.

As I pieced together this history, it left me with many more questions, as well as deep discomfort about my family history and the ways that my family up to the present have benefited at the expense first of native people and then poor white farmers who fell on hard times.

Sioux Chiefs

Sioux Chiefs

What was this land in Sioux Falls like before it was stolen from the Dakota Sioux and turned into farmland for white immigrants? My heart hurts to think of these peoples forced relocation to reservations, the massacre of their community that took place at Wounded Knee, and the cultural genocide that occurred for over one hundred years as thousands of native families were forced to place their children in Indian boarding schools whose goal was to “kill the Indian, save the man.” These are just a few examples of the deep harm that was caused to the original people of this land.

Who were the poor white farmers that lost the land in the 1920s? How did they recover from their loss of land and livelihood? Who were the tenant farmers that actually worked the land while it was under the ownership of my great grandfather and his descendants? How did they manage during the Dust Bowl era? How were they treated by my family? I would like to know the stories of all the other people who were connected to this land.

How would Ian Ryan’s life and the legacy my family inherited have been different without the Potato Famine, the Louisiana Purchase, the Homestead Act, and the 1920s Farm Crisis? What debt does my family and other owning-class families owe to native people in this country for the land that we stole?

Onika Abraham encouraged us to share the stories of our ancestors and their relationship with the land because these stories would shine a light on the roots of oppression of our current food system, strengthening our resolve to change the system to make it more equitable and just for all people. To be honest, I hesitated about whether to share this story because it made me uncomfortable to admit publicly that my own family has benefitted from the oppression of others. But as a white person in the US, of course, this is a piece of my story...how could it not be? Debby Irving says in her book Waking Up White that, “No one alive today created this mess, but everyone alive today has the power to work on undoing it.” What am I going to do with my power?

Now that I know more of my own history, I plan to use this heightened awareness of my privilege in my work and my life to transform the very system that has benefitted my family and oppressed so many others. My first step has been to become vulnerable and share my history with all of you, rather than following my first instinct to sweep it under the rug because of my feelings of shame about my privilege. To quote again from Waking Up White,

“I can’t give away my privilege. I’ve got it whether I want it or not. What I can do is use my privilege to create change. I can speak up without fear of bringing down my entire race. I can suggest change with less fear of losing my job. If I lose my job, I have a white husband who can support me because he’s a white man who had access to education and now has access to employment...I believe America is rich with white people clamoring to demonstrate their moral courage and be part of a change that creates the kind of world we can feel good about leaving to our children.”

No matter who you are or what your family’s history of farming is, I invite you to share that story with me and with others. Sharing stories is an important step along the path of our collective healing from the ingrained cultural systems of oppression that are so pervasive. To quote one more time from Tiffany McClain’s blog post, “...There are an increasing number of spiritual leaders and trauma specialists who stress the need for white people to examine and heal their own racial wounds. Something has to happen within one’s psyche in order to participate in, look away from, or become numb to the pain of others—especially pain imposed on entire groups of people...The psychic impact has been passed on from generation to generation just as indigenous people and people of color experience inter-generational trauma.”

For me, sharing this story has helped me take a step away from guilt, shame, and avoidance of the painful story of my ancestors and toward an openness to the truth of our history and a willingness to work together to create a better future. I hope that you will join me!

By: Sheila Humphreys, Farm to School Coordinator

*Name changed at the request of a family member.

The Transformative Power of Stories

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Do you have a farmer elder in your past? An agrarian ancestor? A parent, grandparent, great grandparent, or someone even further back who worked the land? What do you know about that person? What was their life like? What is their story? Our Farm to School team was recently asked these questions by Onika Abraham, director of Farm School NYC  at the Massachusetts Farm & Sea to School Conference.

Sharing the stories of our ancestors and their relationship to the land and to each other is powerful. Not only does the sharing of our stories build community, but also these stories shine a light on the roots of oppression of our current food system, strengthening our resolve to change the system to make it more equitable and just for all people.

What are your stories? What can we learn from our collective past to help us build a more equitable and just food system going forward? Onika shared some amazing stories with us...

  • We heard about a 3-acre plot of Nipmuc land, the only remaining land in Massachusetts that has never been owned or occupied by non-native people.

Our own stories and the stories above can be shared with students and colleagues to dig deeper into the history of our food system. By sharing stories that aren’t part of the dominant narrative, we can create new narratives of farm and food education and transform the culture of food in our schools and communities. What are your stories and how do they fit into the history of our food system? Please email us your stories—we would love to hear them!