Rebuilding the Middle of Our Food System

“We are at this point now where we’re really having to rebuild things, so we start from what’s most immediate, you know what is local and start to work on rebuilding that food system. Very often, in rebuilding that food system it’s something that surprises us. It’s actually the middle of the food system that we really have to start rebuilding. It’s that infrastructure; it’s what happens between farm gate and dinner plate.” - Philip Ackerman-Leist

The Kearsarge Food Hub’s 4th Annual Love Local Event brought together a diverse group of food system advocates, farmers, and community leaders to explore the challenges and opportunities in rebuilding local food systems. A key message emerged throughout the discussion: rebuilding the “middle” of our food system is critical. This middle space is where infrastructure often breaks down, and it’s where the greatest need for innovation and investment lies.

The event highlighted the importance of connecting producers and consumers more effectively, addressing gaps in food distribution, and creating the infrastructure necessary to make local food more accessible to all.

The "middle" of the food system is often overlooked, but it plays a pivotal role in getting food from farmers to consumers. As we continue to build these connections, there is a growing recognition that food hubs and middle infrastructure must be at the heart of the solution.

A central theme at the Love Local discussion was non-profit organizations and food hubs' role in supporting local businesses. In a video highlighting Food Connects, Executive Director Richard Berkfield, a long-time advocate for food systems change, shared his passion for seeing direct benefits to local communities. “What drives me is knowing that this is the right thing to do for us all,” he said. Food Hub Director McKenna Hayes shared a reminder Richard has stated many times over the years: “Don’t let perfect be the enemy of the good.” While we know food systems change is complex, every step forward counts.

Equity and access were also major topics of conversation, especially for immigrant and new American farmers. Fresh Start Farms, for example, has been working for nearly 20 years to help immigrant farmers access land, resources, and markets. Through its Fresh Start Food Hub, the organization supports about 40 farmers, some of whom grow food for family consumption, while others grow crops for sale. This work has had an impact on food access, particularly in communities that might otherwise lack the ability to grow or buy culturally specific food. Fresh Start’s partnership with the NH Food Bank helps ensure that culturally relevant crops, such as eggs and African corn, are available in food pantries.

Similarly, the New England Young Fishermen’s Alliance highlighted the challenges facing young fishermen trying to enter an industry that is highly regulated and often difficult to navigate. The Alliance’s work to support independent fishermen, particularly those under 45, to ensure a sustainable future for the industry. 85% of seafood is imported to the U.S. and is not subject to the same regulations as domestic seafood. The Alliance’s advocacy for sustainable practices and industry-backed science is essential for preserving fishing as a viable career.

While the event emphasized the importance of systemic change, it also highlighted simple steps that each of us can take to strengthen local food systems. These can make a big difference in our communities, and remind us that small action can have a big impact:

Shop Local: Supporting local farmers, food producers, and food hubs is one of the most direct ways to strengthen the local economy. Whether it's buying from a farmers market, signing up for a CSA, or shopping at a local store that supports regional food producers, every purchase has an impact. Even spending just $10 more per week on local food could add up to $6.2 billion in annual economic benefits.

Share the Message: Help spread the word about the importance of supporting local food systems. Share stories, videos, and resources with your friends and family. The more people who understand how local food systems work and why they matter, the stronger the movement will be.

Donate to Non-Profits: Many organizations, like those featured in the event, rely on donations to fund their work. By contributing to food hubs, farm support organizations, and community food initiatives, you can help provide essential resources to those who are working to rebuild and strengthen the food system.

Love Your Community: Supporting local food systems is about more than just about money, it’s about nurturing the relationships that make our communities strong, resilient, and sustainable. By caring for one another and investing in our local food systems, we can ensure a better, more equitable future for all.

The insights shared during the Love Local event serve as a powerful reminder that rebuilding our food system requires both large-scale actions and small, everyday efforts. As Richard Berkfield said, “The middle of the food system is missing and needs to be rebuilt.” Whether it’s supporting local farmers, ensuring equitable access to fresh food, or advocating for better infrastructure, each step we take contributes to a stronger, more resilient food system.

It’s clear that the future of food in our region depends on our collective action, within communities and our larger institutional food systems. Together, we can rebuild the middle of the food system, ensuring that everyone has access to healthy, locally grown food

We’d like to extend a heartfelt thank you to the Kearsarge Food Hub team for hosting this inspiring event and for including Food Connects as a featured organization. France and Hanna’s hard work, dedication, and leadership in food systems has been instrumental in bringing together such an engaged and passionate community. We are grateful to be part of this collective effort to rebuild and strengthen our food systems.